The
KNIFE, AXE, & SAW
In camping setting
the correct use of tools can make everything proceed more smoothly. It
is important that everyone to be trained on the how and why to use the
tools before they are let loose in camp however. The
knife, axe and saw, while very useful tools, can be very dangerous and
indeed deadly in the wrong hands.
A knife deserves the
best of care. Keep it sharp, wipe it off after each use to prevent it from
rusting or staining, and treat the joints to an occasional drop of machine
oil so that the blades will keep opening smoothly.
Safety should always
be paramount. No one should be allowed to handle these tools until they
have proved themselves not only proficient in their use, but also sensible
and able to follow the safety regulations. The cut and chop card
is a simple method of keeping safety in front of the boys.
Once mastered, the knife,
axe and saw can be put to a variety of uses in camp. From simply chopping
firewood to creating complex gadgets and large shelters they can help transform
your campsite.
These sections aim to
provide an introduction to the basics of the subject.
It is vital that you
do not practice anything here unless in the presence of someone with proven
competence with these tools.
The KNIFE
Types of Knife Blades
Parts of a Knife
The multi-bladed type
knifes ('Swiss army knife') can be useful, but if you only have a single
knife you will need something stronger with a general-purpose blade.
For all around use the
“Swiss” or Jack knife is best. For
certain purposes, however, you may need a special knife, such as a whittler’s
knife, a fisherman’s knife, or a hunting knife. But
choose a knife that fits your needs most of the time and take care of it.
A Rangers best tool is a sharp knife.
You can buy some knives
that have a compass built into the handle, or have the handle hollowed
out so that you can carry equipment inside it. However I would consider
this a waste of money. The compass will eventually lose its accuracy after
the knife has been used (especially if you use it on hardwoods), and the
hollow handle will soon break with use.
The only two general-purpose
knives I would recommend are a decent folding knife, and a strong sheath
knife,
As far as the blade goes,
for Ranger purposes I would steer clear of the ones on the market that
boast several different edges over the length of the blade (serrated, skinning,
saw etc. The 'survival' type knifes). I would simply opt for a knife with
a good clean edge, which perhaps does have different levels of fineness
to the edge along the length of the blade.
Safety Issues
A knife can be an invaluable
asset in all kinds of situations. However you must remember that knives
are dangerous, and can be weapons. Safety should always be of paramount
importance.
No one (and this includes
leaders!) should be allowed to carry or handle a knife unless they have
proven their competence to an experienced instructor. Use the “cut and
chop” card to allow your boys to have the privilege to carry a knife
when camping.I would not allow
Rangers to carry knives on their person at camp all the time, only when
the activity specifically requires the use of knives. I would certainly
never allow anyone to carry a knife on their person off the site; there
is simply no need for it. Offsite the knife should be safely stored in
your backpack.
Remember you are only
as sharp as your knife. You must keep your knife sharp ready for use, a
blunt knife is a dangerous instrument and an inefficient tool. Don't misuse
your knife. Never throw it into trees or the ground. Keep it clean, and
if you don't intend to use it for a while, oiled and in its sheath.
Folding Knives
A folding knife can
be very useful, provided it has a good locked position. If the blade does
not lock firmly, forget it, look elsewhere. A blade within a wooden handle
will be the most comfortable as it will not slip when your hands get sweaty,
and if the handle is made from a single piece of wood, it is less likely
to cause blisters than other types.
Sheath Knife
I just mean an ordinary
general-purpose bladed knife. Take care to choose the handle. A single,
rounded piece of wood is ideal, with the knife tang passing through it
and fastened at the end. This way if the handle breaks the tang can be
wrapped with cloth or twine.
If a handle is only riveted
to the tang it may cause blisters.
A handle could break
at the rivets if subject to heavy work and if the tang were short it would
make it difficult to replace the handle.
Sheath
A sheath is a must
for any normal knife. Always replace the knife in its sheath when not in
use, even if only for a minute or so of inactivity. A sheath should be
made from strong, stitched leather, with a tunnel belt loop. Ensure that
it has a positive fastening to secure the knife. Some sheaths may have
additional small pockets for a penknife or a sharpening stone. These could
be useful to have.
To
Open a pocketknife: Hold knife in one hand and with the thumb
and forefinger of the other hand pull out the blade.
To
Close a pocketknife: Hold knife in one hand and with the thumb
and forefinger of the other hand hold the back edge of the open blade and
close carefully, holding the blade all the way close.Never
close the blade by pushing the back of the blade against your leg, and
never let the blade snap closed, you may lose the tip of your finger.
Passing
a pocketknife: You always pass a pocketknife closed.
Passing
a sheath knife: Grasp the knife with the thumb and forefinger
just above the blade on the handle.Keeping
the sharp edge out away from your hand.Extend
to other person, holding on until the other person says “Thank You”.You
then release the knife and its responsibilities over to him.
Carrying
a sheath knife: The sheath knife is to be worn fastened
on the side of the rear of the body.The
main reason for this is to prevent
Using a pocketknife:To
use a Knife:
·Grasp
the knife firmly around the handle.
·Always
cut away from yourself.
·Do
not place your thumb on the back of the blade.
·To
cut a stick into two pieces, slant the cut.
·To
cut a chick stick into two pieces, make “V” on top and then underneath.
·To
trim a branch, grasp the thick end and cut toward twigs.
·A
sharp knife cuts evenly and smoothly with less effort.
Sharpening
A double-faced stone
with a rough and a smooth surface will be ideal and should be carried in
the sheath pocket.
Use the rough surface
first to remove burrs, then the smooth one to get a fine edge. The object
is not to get the sharpest edge possible, but to get an edge that will
last and not chip.
Sharpening Motion
To sharpen the blade,
hold the handle in the right hand. Use a clockwise circular motion and
apply a steady pressure on the blade with the fingertips of the left hand
as you push away. Keep the angle constant. Keep the stone wet. Rock particles
on the blade will show the angle you are obtaining. Do not drag the blade
towards you under pressure, as this will produce burrs. Reduce the pressure
for a finer edge. Work counter-clockwise on the other side.
Blade profile.
A is too steep and
will wear quickly.B is good. C is
too fine and might chip.
How to care for your Knife
·Keep
it sharp. A sharp knife is the safest. More people are cut by dull knifes
than sharp ones.A sharp knife is
one that you do not have to fight to make a cut.
·Keep
the blade dry. Wipe fingerprints and moisture off after each use, with
a soft cloth.
·Tarnishing
is a normal property of carbon steel and cannot be avoided.Apply
a couple of drops of oil to the blade and joints and springs.
·Never
sharpen blades on a power-driven grinding wheel, which can burn the temper
from the blade.
·When
not in use, store the knife and sheath separately.Treat
the sheath with leather preservative.
·Remember.
Knives are cutting tools and blades are very sharp. Therefore, exercise
caution when handling your knife.Never
use your knife as a chisel, pry bar, hammer, can opener. Screwdriver, or
for any heavy work for which it was not designed.
The AXE
Axes – Names of parts
An axe with a blunt
edge becomes no more than an inefficient hammer, and indeed a great deal
more dangerous as you struggle to use it. Always keep your axe sharp. For
large 'burrs' a file is probably your best bet. Make sure you use the file
correctly though, it will only work in one direction, it works when pushed,
not pulled.
Sharpening an Axe
Use a moderately rough,
flat file 8-10 inches long.Peg the
axe against a log or large piece of wood.Slant
the file so that it lies firmly against the top of the blade (maintaining
bevel of the blade as manufactured).File
evenly down and along the blade, from heel to toe, with up and down strokes
using a slight rocking action away from the bit.Turn
the axe around to expose the opposite side and repeat filling.Once
the filling is complete and there are no gouges or nicks in the bit you
should hone the edge.Honing is completed
with a sharpening oilstone.Hold
the head of the axe firmly in one hand.Use
the other hand to move the coarse side of the stone (or use a course stone)
against the blade in a circular motion from heel to toe.After
a few motions on one side of the blade turn the ax around and repeat the
same procedure.To finish the honing
use the same procedure with a fine stone until the edge no longer shows
as bright a line when held to the light.
Using An Axe
Most people with have
a 'prime' hand and a natural swing. Always use the axe in a way that is
comfortable to you, swinging in an arc that feels natural. Make sure you
have a firm grip, and always swing AWAY from your body, hands, and legs.Ensure
that if you miss your intended target and follow through, the axe will
not strike you or anyone else.
Never throw an axe
on the ground, always sheath it or bury it in a log.
Chopping Areas
When chopping wood
at camp, you will need to create a specific chopping area. Choose a site
that is fairly close to the fire and clear of any obstructions (not only
on the ground. Ensure there are no overhead obstructions that could catch
your axe as you swing). Make a circle that is at least 6 ft in radius (or
at least 3 axe lengths). Rope this area off and ensure it is clearly marked.
Make sure that everyone knows where the chopping area is. No loose clothing
should be taken into the area, and no one should enter the area without
strong shoes or boots (and of course checking it is safe to enter).
Tree Felling
Before you do anything
else, check overhead for dead branches, which may fall and injure you,
and for things like hornets nests. Clear the area around the tree of any
undergrowth or branches that could deflect your blows.
Cut from both sides of
the tree. First you chop a notch out at an angle of about 45 degrees and
then another on the opposite side at a lower level, on the side which you
want the tree to fall.
Do not cut through more
than half the tree before starting the other notch.
You must work at a height
that is comfortable for you. Try to cut downwards at 45 degrees (you may
need a horizontal cut occasionally to clear debris etc).
A steady rhythm of blows
will cut much more efficiently than fewer big blows. If you put too much
effort behind the axe your aim will suffer, you will tire and then every
swing becomes more
Dangerous. Always let
the weight of the axe do the work.
Alternating the angle
of the stroke will prevent the axe from jamming. Too steep an angle will
cause the axe to glance off; end-on will make the axe jam (or simply be
inefficient). Try to aim for a 45-degree angle.When cutting logs to length
cut in the same manner.Cut a V half
way through then roll the log over and repeat the same process.
Splitting Logs
For a large log, as
before, stand behind the log with your feet well apart. Swing down the
cut the side from you. Do not chop downwards. If you wish to split a smaller
log, lay it against another log. Do not put your foot on it. There is an
alternative to this though, hold the smaller log against the cutting edge
and bring them both down together on to a larger log.
If in doubt, or if you
have any difficulty, split larger logs with wedge and a rock. Do not hold
the wood upright in your hand and try to split with an axe.
Removing Branches
When chopping branches
from a large log, always stand on the side away from the axe. Always cut
branches from the outside of the fork (a), not the inside (b).
Carrying an Axe
Carry an axe by holding
it just under the head. Point the blade down or away from you to minimize
the chance you will fall on top of the blade if you trip.
Carrying a Hand Axe (Without a sheath)
Place your palm on
the front of the axe, middle finger down the handle, thumb and the first
finger circling the butt, 3rd and 4th finger curling
around the blade.Keep the bit of
the axe facing away from your body.
Passing a Hand Axe
Grasp the handle close
to the head with you right hand, with the blade’s face tilted to your side,
and the handle’s knob toward the person receiving the Hand Axe.The
person receiving the Hand Axe takes it by the handle. When he has a firm
grip on the handle, he says “Thank You”.You
then release the Hand Axe and its responsibilities over to him.
Passing a long handled Axe
To pass a long handled
ax the person who has the axe should hold the axe by the handle with the
head hanging down and pointed to the outside of the person receiving the
axe. The person receiving the long handled Axe takes it by grasping the
handle below the hand of the person passing the axe. When he has a firm
grip on the handle, he says “Thank You”.You
then release the long handled Axe and its responsibilities over to him.
When
not in use:Never
leave the axe head lying exposed.All
axes must have their bit covered at all times, even for a minute.Hand
axes are best stored in its sheath.If
it does not have one make one for it out of leather or other very heavy
material.
Using an axe takes a
lot of practice and occasionally along the way handles get broken. This
usually occurs when the head misses the target and the handle takes all
the force from the blow. To remove a broken handle, the easiest way is
to put it in a fire, burying as much as possible of the metal in the earth
(to prevent it losing temper).
Never attempt to repair an axe handle.Never
use any axe that has a damaged or split handle.
The SAW
The Bow saw is the safest tool for boys to use
in Rangers.When used correctly the
saw can prepare a large amount of firewood in a short time.There
are several different versions of the Bow Saws.The
one pictured above is a Bow saw and is the most common type.The
second type of bow saw is not actually a bow but is a folding saw.This
type of saw is great for backpacking as it can be folded to a small size
and carried easily.
A third type of saw is not generally used in Ranger
type camp settings.It is called
a “Chain Saw”.No it is not the gas
powered friend of the landscaper but a hand saw that is basically just
what it says it is a chain.It can
be used with both hands or added to a sturdy branch that is in the shape
of a bow and used like a traditional bow saw.
All camp saws are dangerous and should be treated
with care.In the camping situation
with Rangers the hand axe and the bow saw should be stored in the tool
rack when not in use and should be sheathed.If
your bow saw does not have a sheath make one from a section of garden hose
split open and placed over the blade.A
sturdy piece of cardboard can be used in a pinch.
To
use a Bow saw: The bow saw is a single user piece of equipment.The
wood to be cut should be held securely in a sawbuck or other suitable device.Even
smooth cutting strokes are needed to do quick work of most jobs.When
cutting firewood in the chopping area keep the area clear of your cuttings
stack your work neatly out of the way so as not to be a hazard.
To
pass a camp saw:The
person passing the saw should hold the saw by the end opposite the handle
with the blade facing down and away from the person receiving the saw.Extend
to other person, holding on until the other person says “Thank You”.You
then release the saw and its responsibilities over to him.
The camp saw can be sharpened
but; it should be done by a professional at the hardware store or lawnmower
shop.
As with all tools a sharp
saw works best.When your knife,
axe & saw are sharp the risk of injury from having to force cuts is
minimized.None of the tools should
be left lying on the ground but stored correctly in the tool rack or chopping
block when not in use.
Bibliography
Doe,
John B. Conceptual Planning: A Guide to a Better Planet, 3d ed. Reading,
MA: SmithJones, 1996.
Royal
Ranger Men's Ministries of the Assemblies of God -- Gospel Publishing House,
1993.
Smith, Chris. Theory
and the Art of Communications Design. State of the University Press, 1997.
WEB
SITES
Ranger DJ’s-- www.rangerdj.com/adventure/knifenaxe.html
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www.rangerdj.com/knifeaxe/index.htm
